FAMILY STYLE :: The Rise of El Ruso Tacos is Something Out of a Sonoran Storybook

By The Hundreds Staff Oct 10, 2021

The first time Ben Hundreds brought me to El Ruso for tacos, I wasn’t sure we were in the right place. But he was sure. He had been countless times already. “Order the carne asada, and get it with beans,” he said with conviction. The taco stand was tucked into the back parking lot of an industrial park in Boyle Heights, in a place you’d least expect to find one of LA’s most magnificent tacos. And while you couldn’t see El Ruso until you walked right up to it, you could smell Walter Soto’s signature Sonoran recipes from a mile away.

Though El Ruso has upgraded their location since then and their tacos and sobaqueras have become legendary around the country, it still feels like one of LA’s best-kept secrets when you bite into one. The zing of the mesquite marinade on the expertly grilled carne asada, the creaminess of the beans and cheese, the contrasting flavors of the incredible salsas, all held together by the light and fluffy yet strong and pliable flour tortilla. It’s a dream bite and a must-try for all taco lovers.

If you still haven’t tried El Ruso yet, you have the perfect opportunity this weekend at Family Style Fest, where El Ruso will be serving up delicious tacos all day long, as well as an exclusive collaboration with, you guessed it, The Hundreds. A partnership that’s been a long time coming, this project has been a labor of love for both sides and the culmination of Ben’s years-long “research” and “vetting” of El Ruso’s short-but-savory menu.

We caught up with El Ruso’s head honcho Walter Soto ahead of his Family Style debut to talk tacos, flour tortilla slander, and people who order “no beans.”

THE HUNDREDS: When you started El Ruso, did you ever imagine it would garner such a large and loyal group of fans?

WALTER SOTO: I didn’t know if it would be possible, but I did dream and hope that it would become something like that. I wanted and want everyone to understand and love the food that we prepare and understand that it took a lot of thought and preparation. We cook from our roots.

What does it mean to you to be featured alongside some of the best restaurants in the world at Family Style?

It is an honor and a great sense of pride that we feel that we have been invited to participate in such an awesome event and among so many great and awesome people. We really are super excited!

What did you think of the collab t-shirts when you saw them?

They are something that I never imagined in my life possible. It is so awesome to see our logo and name next to none other than THE Hundreds. WOW! Truly a wow moment for us.

Any other food at the festival you’re looking forward to trying?

Honestly, we don’t know where to start. We are looking forward to trying EVERYTHING!

What makes El Ruso so special? Where does your love of Sonoran-style cooking come from?

El Ruso is love and comes from our hearts because we do it with the same love we feel for ourselves, and by sharing something from us to you we try to send the message of gratitude. Our love for Sonoran food comes from our roots, our memories, our families, our heart. It’s what we grew up with and the recipes that we use are a combination of recipes that have been in our families for years. We love to hear how people remember their childhood and their family’s past and present when they eat our food. The love we put into it shows in their eyes and hearts when they take a bit and remember.

Why should we not tolerate flour tortilla slander?

Tortillas de harina, or flour tortillas, are part of our culture, of our roots. They are part of our past and present, and they will continue to be a part of our future.

Do you judge people who say “no beans”?!

No! Of course not. They just haven’t been exposed to the goodness of beans in a taco.

Be honest, what are the most tacos Ben Hundreds has ever ordered?

I don’t remember to be honest, but I think about 100 tacos is probably about right. When we were in Boyle Heights, he stopped by very often.

What’s your favorite dish to make when you’re not making tacos and sobaqueras?

I would really like to add seafood to the menu. It is one of my favorite things to eat and I really enjoy cooking it.

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THE HUNDREDS X EL RUSO DROPS AT FAMILY STYLE FEST ON SUNDAY OCTOBER 10TH