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| Everyday
I rock a sick Stussy tee, some half-brained idiot pops off, "Dude,
Stussy's still around? That's so old school!" Usually, after I'm done
laughing and pointing at Mr. Abercrombie's cool new Pumas, I give 'em the
Style 101 breakdown. It goes something like "Stussy's the ultimate
street brand... the only t-shirt line to have lasted and maintained its
integrity for decades... blew up Japan's scene... Midas touch... yada yada..."
Something like that.
After
years of reiterating this diatribe to the clueless masses, I figured I'd
do the world a favor and get the full Stussy scoop and serve it on a hot
plate of Internet. Especially considering 2004 marks Stussy's 25th anniversary
in the game. So I drove down to Stussy's headquarters in Irvine, California,
barged through their sticker-laden doors, and chowed down with Stussy's
Marketing guru Robbie Jeffers. This is Stussy A-Z, and now you have no
excuse...
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1980 was a pivotal year for Southern California subculture. The L.A. punk scene was exploding, surf culture had carved an urban niche, and skateboarding had ditched its novelty hula-hoop act. A Laguna Beach-based artist named Shawn Stussy was spending his summers shaping surfboards, scribbling his signature on 'em, and testing his work in the water. When winters rolled around, he fled to the mountains to ski. The definitive freebird. On a fateful afternoon on Mammoth Mountain, Shawn bumped into a fella by the name of Frank Sinatra (really, not that Frank Sinatra). After hours of brain-digging, Frank was sprung on Shawn's vision and stee-lo - the way he designed, the way he wrote his name, and the manner in which he airbrushed his surfboards. Together, they started Stussy. From behind his 1-of-5 Rasheed Wallace Air Force 1s (just chillin' on his desk), Robbie Jeffers confirms, "Shawn was the artist and Frank was the beancounter. Frank relied on Shawn to propel the street vibe while he handled the business end of Stussy." Initially, Shawn's designs and spirit behind Stussy stemmed from a blend of beach roots and reggae culture, but most importantly, the burgenoing skateboard culture. Jeffers remarks, "Both Shawn and Frank honored the skateboarder's mentality of not caring, wearing edgier clothes, and pushing the envelope when it came to fashion." (Who did you think poularized baggy pants, chain wallets, and cargo pants?) While
Stussy initially followed the core skateboarder customer of the 80s and
early 90s - (you know, the dirtbag skate head with tattered sagged pants
and a XXL shirt), they reinvented themselves when the Prada-touting, clean
button-up, Scott Johnstons started blossoming. Stussy also started gaining
recognition as more of an international men's line, and so they gradually
moved from skate shops to clothing boutiques. Unfortunately, much of the skate scene disassociated themselves with Stussy during this period because they were reveling in punk rebellion, but of course, Stussy was years ahead of the game. Eventually, skate fashion grew into its own look (a la Supreme, etc.) and Stussy rose to the top like cream in coffee. The skate community eagerly jumped back on the bandwagon, and wouldn't ya know, it was just in time for Stussy's launch back into the industry. After
recruiting Richard Mulder as their first rider for their skate team ("We
met at the warehouse, gave him some clothes and told him to go home to
think about it and get back to me later. He was really hyped on the gear
and the direction we wanted to take"), other prominent skateboarders
clawed at Stussy's front door - including Keith Hufnagel, Chad Timtim,
and Anthony Van Engelen. Jeffers reminisces "The cool thing about
it is that they were fans of Stussy before the whole thing started. [They]
came to me amped on the fact that they were not only going to get free
Stussy clothes, but actually get paid to wear Stussy. They wanted to be
apart of our thing because we weren't trying to tell them how to be our
image of a skate team, but instead wanted their input and ideas towards
everything including team, design, tours and future riders." |
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Although
they helmed a sturdy skate team and remained devoted to their skate customer,
Stussy again turned the tables by pushing their image as more of a lifestyle
line than a skateboarding company - and if you've been paying attention,
most skate companies have followed suit. Today,
Stussy has been throned as the original streetwear brand to successfully
cross over from West Coast lifestyle to international status. Everyone
from the boys of B2K to Lance Mountain to your 14-year-old sister rocks
Stussy like it's drippin' with honey. And although Americans may equate
Stussy with the All-American boardsports brand, the Japanese are the ones
who've heralded the clothing line as ichiban amongst undying trends.
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